The code on the proportioning / combination valve that houses the black 2 wire brake pressure warning switch bolted on with 3 hex / Allen bolts has the letter code you need to match see photo #4
You Will Receive This Exact One As Seen In Photos #7 - #15
This is code D
Part Located File Cabinet #43 Drawer D
1 YEAR WARRANTY
Part Number Must Match Exactly
No Returns On Incorrect Purchases
Beware units with the brake pressure warning switch still installed, if rebuilders are too lazy to remove the easiest part to pull on the assembly it was not actually or fully remanufactured.
These are often bad and must be removed to test by depressing the switch closing the circuit
While removing, these break in the combination valve body leaving the metal tip stuck threaded in…removing one takes me over a hour and the threads or shuttle are easily damaged
Bleed tool and tested switch with lubed o-ring included
Brake Fitting Threads Chased And Cleaned
Brake Fluid Flushed
I Have Designed Custom Plugs To Ensure Threads Are Not Stripped And To Keep Valves Lubricated
Valves With Cut Or Removed Brake Lines Can Be Corroded Or Stripped
The Plugs On The Unit Are To Prevent Contamination From Entering Into The Brake Valve And Also To Keep The Valve From Seizing Due To Lack Of Lubricant
If Any Moisture Or Debris Get Inside It Will Seize
I assure you no one knows more about these ABS Assemblies than I do…
I’ve been working on this for a few years creating schematics, test points, finding failures in the pumps, electrical components inside the ebcm module, brake pressure modulator valves and proportioning / combination valves and solenoids
The most common failure is the brake pressure warning switch…
None of the “remanufactured” or “refinished” units I’ve seen available have the brake pressure warning switch removed…
I use quotes because what “remanufactured” or “refinished” means to some or most rebuilders, is that they spray painted or cleaned up the unit paint marketed the bolts on units that were working when they removed it.
If they sell units with the brake pressure warning switch still installed. I assure you, it was not actually or fully remanufactured.
The assemblies all have the same part number 12765501 but are wildly different, containing different jetting , solenoids , proportioning / metering valves and EBCM modules yet other rebuilders sell them all without noting or separating the differences meaning someone with a 1 ton unit could buy a unit that was pulled from a S10 blazer…
There’s no way that a smaller vehicles unit will be as good as the one you have, if it’s just ABS, how much could it really matter?
I assure you it does, when you hit the brakes in a slide on ice it will take 100 yards to stop instead of 50.
Yes other units will work, just not as good as your original.
The code on the proportioning / metering valve that houses the brake pressure warning switch bolted on with 3 hex / Allen bolts has the letter code you need to match if you want the same unit you already have…
I hold my head up high and proudly say this was fully serviced, rebuilt, tested, flushed and repaired to meet or be better than oem standards
They said it couldn’t be done, servicing the ebcm
I said.. except by me.
On a scale of 1 to 10 difficulty this was a 100
Every other remanufacturer is simply selling used, but tested on a vehicle units, they clean up and mark bolts with a paint marker…
I have flushed the old fluid with a scan tool on a setup I built, with the entire wiring harness, every electrical component and modules, ecu, cluster, ignition, entire brake system, brake pedal, booster, vacuum pump and master cylinder, and built custom tools to service these...
I pulled the brake pressure warning switch size 13/16th socket, centered the proportioning valve shuttle , created a bleed tool to keep it centered, tested all 6 solenoids separately while repairing the ebcm module, replaced seals and o rings, checked ohm readings, repaired and replaced components in the EBCM by removing the top and using rtv after repairs to seal the 3D printed cover from filament I’ve submerged in brake fluid for over a year to test endurance, after placing a desiccant packet inside to absorb ambient air moisture from opening the unit just for good measure I’ve taken extra steps to ensure a quality product…
You will need a scan tool capable of clearing your codes and bleeding the brakes. Professional installation is recommended with this being an extensive install.
It’s not plug n play
