The installation instructions are below, keep scrolling down the page. This is a fabricated steel roll bar made to fit '67-'68 Mustang fastbacks. It is made from 1 3/4" x .120” mild steel tubing. It is mandrel bent and MIG welded. The floor plates are .120", and the roof tabs are .187". It was copied from an original '67 Shelby roll bar and it does fit the car nicely. It will also fit Dynacorn bodies, but may need slight adjustments. It bolts to the upper roof structure where the original Mustang shoulder harness's went, and it bolts or welds to the floor at the bottom. It will require notching of the fiberglass quarter panels, just like the original Shelby's. I have built and sold over 300 of these bars to satisfied customers in my fabrication shop over the last 14 years.-THE UPPER ROOF BRACKETS MUST BE WELDED ON BY THE CUSTOMER. THE PHOTOS OF THE WELDED ROOF BRACKETS ARE FOR THE LISTING ONLY, THEY MUST BE WELDED ON BY THE CUSTOMER.-DUE TO UPS AND FEDEX SHIPPING GUIDELINES, I CAN NO LONGER WELD THE UPPER ROOF BRACKETS ON AS THAT WILL PUT IT IN AN OVERSIZE CATEGORY AND SHIPPING IS ASTRONOMICAL.
There are NO brackets installed that will allow the installation of original Shelby inertia reels!!
I no longer install the upper 5 point harness tabs because the "Y" style shoulder harness is getting hard to find, and racing sanctioning bodies no longer allow the "Y" style shoulder harness that will bolt on to the roll bar. The best method of installing a 5 point aftermarket harness is to use the belts that wrap around the roll bar individually with no tab or bolt needed.
Roll Bar Installation Instructions
The rollbar is shipped bare because putting it in a box will
exced the dimensions and put it in the oversize category. Shipping the bars in
a box really did nothing to protect them, and added to the cost as well as the
shipping cost. FedEx does not allow shrink wrap to package anything, so this
was deemed the best way to ship these by a FedEx shipping consultant.
The upper roof brackets come marked left and right and the rollbar is marked where they need to be welded.
-The upper roof brackets need to be spaced away from the roof structure to allow for the headliner, factory shoulder harnesses and to allow the rollbar to be slipped in. The approximate starting point of spacing the brackets is 1/2". This is best done by using a stack of washers. Your dimension may be different depending on your car and where it was built.
-The fiberglass side panels next to the seat will need to be
removed to install this roll bar.
-The upper tabs will bolt to the inner roof structure where
the original shoulder harnesses attached.
-The roll bar upper mounting tabs face the front of the car
when installed correctly.
-The lower part of the roll bar will bolt or weld (welding
is preferred) to the part of the floor that is under the fiberglass side
panels. The lower roll bar mounting plate will end up in front of the raised
(app. 1”) flange that goes across the floor. THE LOWER PART OF THE ROLL BAR
DOES NOT END UP ON THE BOTTOM PART OF THE FLOOR THAT WILL END UP CARPETED WHEN
THE CAR IS FINISHED.
-THE UPPER ROLL BAR MOUNTING TABS ARE NOT TOO NARROW FOR
YOUR CAR!!!! (READ BELOW)
-Because Ford built Mustangs at three different plants in
the 60’s, each had slightly different dimensions where the roll bar needs to be
bolted to the roof and the distance from the floor to the shoulder harness
mounting bolt. It would be cost prohibitive to build a roll bar to fit cars
built at all three different plants, so I built one jig that will produce a
roll bar that will fit cars built at all three plants. Because of this fact,
the upper tab width of the roll bar will be slightly smaller than the width of
the inner roof structure. Some buyers of this roll bar will choose to install
the stock shoulder harnesses, which will bolt on between the inner roof
structure and the upper roll bar tabs, taking up some of the gap. There also
has to be a small gap left in order for the headliner to be slipped into place.
The rest of the gap can be taken up with custom steel or aluminum spacers, or
SAE flat washers.
-Once you have the roll bar correctly oriented with the
upper tabs facing forward, now will be the time to see if you can get the
mounting bolts (not provided because of too many lengths) in the roof
structure. Some will bolt right in with ease, others will require some tweaking
of the upper roof tabs, enlarging the holes slightly in the tabs, or both.
-If there is a gap where the roll bar attaches to the floor,
it will need to be built up using 1/8”, 3/16”, or ¼” flat plate that will
either weld or bolt under the lower roll bar mounting plates. Some cars will
require this, others will not.
-With the roll bar bolted in place,(do not weld the bottom
yet) measurements can be taken vertically and horizontally from a known
reference point and transferred to the fiberglass side panels. The notches in
the fiberglass can be made with a 1 ¾” hole saw, and a die grinder. It is best
to start small, removing a little bit of material at a time until the side
panel fits nicely. Since the roll bar is not yet welded at the bottom, it can
still be moved slightly front to back and side to side for the best fit with
the side panels.
-When everything fits good, the bottom plates can be welded
in with at least a 130 amp MIG, TIG or arc welder.
